Vintage Reports
 

Meekers reviews the latest 2008 vintage and calls it a 'very, very good' year all round; especially for the Cabernets.

Wines of the 2008 vintage are generally very enjoyable. The whites and rosés as well as the red wines possess a multitude of perfumes and tastes, and the more you find, the better the wine is likely to be.

THE 2008 VINTAGE REPORT

© Georges Meekers – May 2009

overview

The 2008 harvest was gifted with superb weather and it was hard to fail in this vintage. All the great names should be on song.

The last couple of years have seen a little more rain than is typical for the Island. But the 2008 vintage didn’t see any real peculiarities and diseases which can compromise crops. There were no heavy downpours but regular precipitation.

Malta’s climate is normally characterized by very hot and dry summers. This year’s coldish and relatively wet winter was followed by a cooler than normal summer with lower night and day temperatures. Diurnal temperature variation was higher than normal producing desirable acid and high natural sugar content in grapes.

The gradual rise in heat and absence of heat waves during the 2008 summer months has given way to a much slower and extended ripening period for the indigenous and international red grape varieties especially. This has rendered grapes with excellent aromatic qualities and varietal characteristics.

It must be stressed; the positive factor over the customary dry vintages is the fair amount of rainfall that occurred. Similar amounts of precipitation as in 2004 and 2005 made it a relatively less dry season which has resulted in a more abundant crop than in 2007.

The Island’s winemakers received their 2008 harvest generally one week later than last year and some pioneered with prolonged hang time for reds and indigenous grapes which in the past have been difficult to pick at desired sugar and ripeness levels.

The average yield per vine recorded by leading wineries was under the maximum D.O.K. and I.G.T. limits which safeguards quality. The conditions were ideal for the production of structured white and red wines of character with potential for the making of the country’s first ‘Reserves’ ever. Expect to see (more) ‘Superior’ wines of increased alcoholic strength.

major wineries record

The amounts are small but sufficient to satisfy demand. The production of Maltese wines made from locally grown grapes of all the wineries is only about 3 million bottles per season, or less than 0.01 France’s output.
It is unclear (or rather doubtful) if by now the industry's target of circa 1000 ha of land planted with vines has been reached.

the wines

It's a great pleasurable vintage especially for reds which will keep longer than usual but  there are many fruity, gulpable wines for young drinking too. Red wines are generally better than the whites which are relatively forward, but delicious and easy to drink. In general, characteristic varietal fruitiness harmonised well with a firm acid structure and pleasant alcohol content (which is sometimes too perceptible on the nose of some wines or when matched to light summer fare).

Main grape varieties
As always, the indigenous Girgentina (white) often blended with Chardonnay gives crisp white wines; and the other native grape Gellewza (black) is used for mainly light rosés and occasionally modern red blends together with Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet. Well made, serious rosés are delightfully aromatic this year - as they should be. Other international grape varieties which developed well include Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Vermentino for the production of aromatic and Viognier for fruitier white wines. Besides the Bordeaux varieties, there's plentiful Syrah as well as Carignan, Grenache Noir and some Tempranillo to go round  Look out for some red 'keepers' which will cellar longer than usual. Choose the Cabs over the Merlot varietals, though.

New regions / varieties
The most promising red grape is perhaps Sangiovese. Merlot is coming into a class of its own as a mono-varietal but this is the year of the Cabernets. Vermentino appears to be a popular white grape variety now that it is more widely available. So is top tip Moscato or Zibibbo sometimes vinified as a sweet dessert wine; occasionally as a crisp dry white by Delicata.

Most important regions of production
The appellation system has been introduced only as recent as of the 2007 vintage and is a major step forward for the industry. It recognises designations for the production of Q.W.P.S.R., namely D.O.K. Malta and D.O.K. Gozo, which is the most northern zone, besides the wider region named I.G.T. Maltese Islands. To guarantee impartiality D.O.K., samples are sent abroad to Italy for organoleptic testing. This year, wineries have been complaining about the bureaucratic system since it has caused delays in releasing their wines of the new 2008 vintage.

Recent changes in ownership:
Dacoutros winery and the state’s Farmers Wine Co-operative Society both folded.#

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